The first thing we did when we arrived in Questzaltanango (also known as Xela) was to buy hats. Fleece-lined, wool hats. The cold weather was only mitigated by the warmth of the family we stayed with.
For four days, we shared Christmas tamales and beans on tostados alongside Noemi, Carlos, and their extended family of 14. Carlos was on the verge of retiring as a public school PE teacher, and it was an opportunity for us to share a home, meals (and one very occupied bathroom) with a humble family whose modest lifestyle was worlds away from our own.
We spent a full day hiking at Baul with Carlitos, the spunky 9 year old grandson, and the next day relaxing in the Fuentes Georgina thermal baths. But the best part was the campfire in the cousins' backyard, complete with hot dogs and roasted s'mores.
If you want to do a homestay in Guatemala, I'd recommend trying to find one in a rural location, often through the town mayor or a Spanish language school. The ones in the tourist towns are often just glorified hotels (see our San Pedro post.)
The accommodations were rustic, but overall it was great for our whole family to experience a small taste of a very different life than we are accustomed to.
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