Turrialba-- the Real Costa Rica and Rafting the Pacuare

Every time I go to the Turrialba area, I fall in love with Costa Rica all over again.  It's a combination of the lush rolling hills and deep canyons, the super-friendly people, and the natural wonders of erupting volcanoes and rushing rivers.

We visited Maricela and Johnny on Sunday.  Our new brakes, however, went from being squeaky to smoking on fire as we descended into a valley.  We quickly pulled over and doused the smoking brakes with all the water we could find in the car.  Then we drove slowly until we could find a place to refill our emergency brake cooling water.  A man in a convenience store hooked up a hose and helped us.  Then a police man came by to see what was going on and he also gave us encouraging words.  Finally we arrived in Tres Equis.

Never have I been in such a communal environment as Tres Equis.  Everyone walks into each others houses, shares stories and greetings, and whatever food is being eaten.  The kids raced off to play with the neighborhood kids: Derek, Lenny and Brenda, while we enjoyed a constant flow of visitors. The food, as usual was spectacular.  I got the feeling that Maricela made an especially spicy soup just for me.  She knows I like my food hot and spicy.

The village headman, Don Rafa took us on a little trip to a local lake.  But we were clouded in and the rains dumped on us, and a tree had fallen, blocking the steeply inclined, rock pocked road.  We were lucky my 4x4 was able to make it back up the mountain in the torrential downpour.
Back in Tres Equis, we saw Turrialba erupting silhouetted by the sunset.

Two of Don Rafa's  sons work for Pacuare river rafting companies so we were given great advice on what sections of river we can do with our young teenagers and the state of the Pacuare as of that day.  All indications looked good.  The river was not too high and not too low.

That night we stayed in Turrialba and the next morning we met our tour guides in the center of town.  At the river, they quickly suited us up and got us into the raft.  As we floated toward the first set of rapids, our guide said, "I'm now going to explain the 4 important commands that you must follow."  He got through three of them and then we entered the first set of rapids.
"What about the 4th command?" I shouted above the crashing of waves.
"Oh I'll tell you later," he said.

"But what about if one of us falls in?" Ilana queried.
"Don't worry about it," he said.
Needless to say, we were all glad that we had rafted before hand and received full safety briefings on those occasions.

The river was a gorgeous green, cutting through ravines with steep jungle on both sides.  The first class 3 rapid seemed a bit daunting, but we quickly adapted.  Then the class 4 rapids were just plain fun.  It was like riding a roller coaster while slamming through walls of cold water.  3.5 hours later, we were tired, sun drenched, and so grateful to have had the opportunity to raft such a beautiful river.

This horse was just hanging out in Turrialba

As a final challenge, our guides took us to a rock outcropping where we climbed up a 15 foot cliff.  From there, they told us to jump.  I asked if it is deep enough.  He said, "Should be".   Marina, Benji and I made harrowing jump, if only to verify that it is in fact deep enough.

Great day. Great fun.  Pura Vida!

The Reign of Dogs at Territorio de Zaguates

Written by Benji Blatt

This Saturday we went to Territorio de Zaguates and we had a really great time! Territorio de Zaguates is a shelter that takes in stray or abused dogs and gives them food, a place to sleep, and a lot of exercise. It was my second time here, but it's magnificence wasn't lessened at all. We drove up through Heredia and saw that about one hundred people that came to donate, do service, and hike with the dogs for about two hours. We got there and were amazed to see that there were around 750 to 800 dogs and an amazing expanse of acres of beautiful countryside.

The hike wasn't that hard, but it took a long time because we loved to constantly stop, sit down and pet the dogs that would swarm us. Some of the dogs had marks of abuse like brain damage, no teeth, or a cut tail, leg, or ears. However, you could tell that they were all really happy to be with a lot of other dogs and still were very cute despite the injuries and sicknesses.


I think it would be really cool to be one of the volunteers or workers at the territorio because they get to take care of and be around so many of those dogs. It was really fun when one of the guides ran down the hill and all of the dogs would follow in a really fast sprint. I tried running with them once and got knocked over by one dog and nearly got trampled by the rest of the dogs of all shapes and sizes.

It was an amazing experience and I can't wait to go again. Afterwords, we went the the restaurant Posada de la Bruja with our friends and had a fun time there too. Over all it was really fun and we were very happy to give a small donation at the end to support the dogs that reigned over the expanse of hills, mud, a little poop, and smiles. I will never forget the dogs like Rino and won't forget the fun we had with our human friends and our dog friends. I definitively recommend it for people of all ages, who love dogs.

Zipping Through Monteverde

We've finally found the formula for getting the most out of Costa Rica.  It's the 3 day, 2 night plan.  With school out, and our flight to Seattle only a week away, we wanted to get out and see some Costa Rica without exhausting ourselves too much.  Monteverde with a beach kicker was the solution.
It took only 2.5 hours from Escazu to Santa Elena, the cozy town couched amid the cloudy green peaks of Monteverde.  But, the rains started that afternoon at about 2 and didn't stop until the following morning.  Our only activity that afternoon was a hike into a nearby forest to find a giant and well-known ficas tree that wrapped itself around another tree from base to crown.  When the strangled tree died, it left only the shell of the ficas, which now allows teva wearing tourists with dreadlocks to climb up higher and higher inside the ficas to dizzying heights above the forest floor.  This is, perhaps, the only free activity available in the ultra-touristy Monteverde.  Benji and Marina found a second ficas that was too tight for most tourists and made their own ascents.

The next morning we spent 3 hours doing extensive loops through the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve.  It's a beautiful park with trails that meander through the cloud forest jungle.  Our goal, as we climbed up and down, through hill and dale, was to view the elusive and resplendent Quetzal.  Finally, after 2 hours, we came across a large group of tourists excitedly pointing their 8000 dollar cameras in one direction.  Yes, it was a Quetzal.  Long blue tail, bright red chest, green head.  If I were a Mayan king, this would be my signature bird, too.


We have favorite birds here.  I never thought I'd even have a list, but here it is.  We like the Scarlet Macaws, though they are quite ubiquitous around the south end of Jaco beach.  They are beautiful and majestic.  Then, you have to go with the Quetzal, as there's nothing like them and they are dang hard to find.  Next, when just thought a Toucan was some kind of advertisement ploy, then you see one in the wild it blows your socks off.  Who invented that bird?  So bizarre!  Next, the Mot Mot, with the split fancy tail.  We've seen them in the wild, at Tres Cruces, and right at CDS.  They only appear when you say words twice, like Boutros Boutros Ghali.  To round out my list, I do like the flocks of Parakeets that are squawking away in large groups near Avenida Escazu and near the Intercontintal, across from Multiplaza.  Apparently, they like shopping malls.

If you go to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Refuge, don't forget to stop at the free hummingbird "exhibition" across the street.  Hummingbirds of all shapes and sizes are buzzing around a series of feeders.  Fast, sleek, and with dazzling coloration --now I'm sorry I left them off my bird list above.

After a fiercely fast sandwich, we then raced off to Selvatura Adventures to do their highly rated zipline tour.  We were trying to beat the weather.  But, Daniel and Steven, our devoted guides, told us that we weren't going to be rained on today.  Apparently they both have PhDs in meteorology.  But, we were trusting them with our lives, so we left our raincoats behind and began our 16 line tour.  Ilana was a bit wary of the whole, "you must do the brake with your back hand" situation.  She didn't want that kind of responsibility.  But, in truth, we didn't need to do any braking.  She was also a little distrught about the 5th cable being assembled before our eyes by an 18 year old with a wrench, a crowbar and the word Daisy tatooed on his arm.  He was attaching the cable to a tree.  Not a concrete foot reinforced by titanium spikes.  Just a tree in the jungle that hasn't fallen down yet.  I have to be honest that I gave the root structure of that tree a thorough assessment before I allowed myself to be clipped on as the guinea pig that would sail across the canyon on the cable attached to a tree by Al Bundy's Costa Rican cousin.    

The highlight of the zipline for me was the tarzan swing that came before the 16th zip.  Benji bravely went first and survived unscathed.  Then, I stepped off the platform into the abyss and felt my heart in my mouth as my velocity increased faster and faster.  Scary, exciting, exhilarating.  For someone who used to hate heights, I'm still amazed that I did it.  And enjoyed it.

On our way home, we met up with the Anne, Noah and Arielle at Playa Blanca.  There we had some remarkably good boogie boarding before the waves got too big.  The beach was gorgeous, the water cool and clear, and the lunch was yummy. 

Hiking at Bebedero, Escazu

I took a little breather from grading finals to enjoy a springlike, windy hike with my girlfriends.  Shauna, who is moving to our hometown of Seattle, came along for a final Escazu hike.  It was wonderfully breezy on the pasture at the top.  The dogs got into the cow pies, and we ended up finding a very kind local guy on the way down to lend us a hose.  Phew!

Directions to the Bebedero Hike:  You can Waze the church at Bebedero on the way up to San Antonio, Escazu for directions.  Park in the tiny downtown near the San Francisco de Assisi church in Bebedero, go right at the church up the paved road, and then turn left onto the dirt road.  When you reach the house, go left.  You'll be at the top in under an hour!

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Father's Day at Playa Blanca

White sand, coconuts, boogie boarding and Nutella for all!  Does life get any better than this?  We celebrated Father's Day and our first weekend of summer vacay with friends at the beach near Jaco.

Directions to get there:  Drive toward Jaco and turn right down toward Playa Mantas two streets past the giant entrance to Punta Leona.  You'll see a little store, a pulperia on your left.   There's a Pop's Ice Cream near the beach, and not much else.  parking is 2-4 bucks.  Once on the beach, go left and climb over the rocks, but come back 1.5- 2 hours before high tide or you'll have to wait!

Tide charts for Jaco:
http://magicseaweed.com/Playa-Jaco-Surf-Report/2472/Tide/

Glass Menagerie in Costa Rica!

We had a successful run of Tennessee Williams' "The Glass Menagerie" here on the Country Day School stage. Directed by a senior at our school, Jexi, (who also played Laura) we held three performances of the powerful play.



I was excited to play Amanda, the mom.  It was my first dramatic role in many years (usually, I act in comedies), my first time in a full show since the kids' birth 13 years ago, and probably the most lines I've ever had to memorize for one show!  All in all, a fun and creative opportunity.